Cement Plant Stand That ANYONE Can Make!

What’s up, guys?! Sorry I missed last week. This one took a little trial and error and put me behind a bit. But, when I say “It was worth it,” trust me-IT WAS WORTH IT!!!

Let’s get started with the supply list, shall we?

Things you’ll need:

  • 3-4 Wood dowels or wood closet rods that are at least 1″ in diameter. The length is all up to you and how tall or short you want to make it.
  • 8-12 in. Wood dowels that are 5/8″ in diameter
  • 600 grit sand paper
  • Paint or wood stain
  • 1 60lb bag of Quikrete
  • Petroleum jelly or something that is lubricating (I used Vaseline)
  • Hot glue, screws, wood glue, or epoxy (E6000 works great, but takes about 24 hours to cure)
  • Plastic tub for your cement form

‘Kay, I’m gunna let ya know, my first go-around was a total and complete fail. This is why: One, I used too much water. Two, I didn’t put a lubricant in the bucket. And Three, I’m impatient and didn’t let the cement cure completely. You’re going to see pictures from the first trial I did, and the final through out this post. I think seeing the mistakes I made will help you learn and make this much easier for you!

So, after realizing my mistakes, here’s what I did!

First, I sanded all of my dowels down. You always want wood to be smooth before applying any paint or stain. That way, it doesn’t show imperfections in the wood and the paint/stain will adhere better to the surface. After sanding the dowels, I painted them. I wanted them to go with the whole aesthetic of my house, which is neutral with small pops of color, here and there. So I taped off about 12 inches from the bottom of the larger dowels and painted them black and white.

This was part of my trial and error, so that’s why there are small holes in the dowels. I thought I could screw the smaller dowels to the larger ones. Nope.

Once the paint was dry, I attached the smaller dowels to the larger ones. Honestly, I eye-balled where I wanted to put them. You can skip this step, but I did it for aesthetic purposes. It really isn’t necessary. But, if you do choose to do it, you want to make sure the larger dowels meet at the top and are spread evenly (8-12 in., depending on the size of your smaller dowels). To make this easier for me to do, I attached all three together, essentially creating an open triangle.

This is from my first go-around. But, you can see how the legs are spread evenly, using the smaller dowels.

Now, you want to chose your cement mold. My first time, I chose a 5-gallon bucket. Honestly, I’m glad that didn’t work out because it wasn’t as large as I had visioned in my head. The second time, I chose a much larger tub. I don’t remember where I got it. It was an old toy bin that I used when my kids were younger. I want to say it’s an 18 gallon tub. You can get one like it at Wal-Mart.

The diameter of the bottom is approx. 16 in.

First, I measured about 4 inches from the bottom and placed a tick mark on it. That’s how thick I wanted my table top to be.

Now, lube that baby up! Don’t be afraid to use too much, either. The more you use, the easier it’ll be to get the concrete out of the tub!

Here comes, in my opinion, one of the hardest parts of the project. Mixing the Quikrete. I’ve NEVER mixed it before. I kinda skimmed over the instructions and looked online for some measurements, but honestly, I didn’t really measure the cement:water ratio. I knew what it needed to look like after failing the second time, so I first scooped in about 20 cups of the Quikrete and 12 cups of water. Too much water. So I put in about 15 more cups of Quikrete and I didn’t have enough water. So I put in some more water. Basically, what I’m saying here is, you need your mix to look like mud. NO STANDING WATER ON THE TOP! If you have any excess water, just either scoop it out or soak it up with paper towels.

Now, pour the concrete mix into your mold. You want to make sure you get all the air bubbles out, so tap the container on the ground a little bit and then go around the outside with your mixing stick and tap it. You know you got all the air bubbles out when you stop seeing bubbles at the top.

Insert your legs in the middle of the cement and stabilize them. I used rope to keep them in the middle and standing up.

Now, the TRULY hard part: LET THAT SIT FOR 72 HOURS! Yes, I said 72 hours. Yes, I know that’s 3 LONG days. Yes, I know it looks dry after 24 and 48 hours. NO! DO NOT REMOVE FOR ATLEAST 72 HOURS! I know it’s hard to do, but do as I say. I learned the hard way.

After 72 hours, flip the stand on it’s legs, and the mold should come right off, given you lubed it up a lot. If not, wiggle the sides of the mold to release the cement.

And viola! You have a chic and modern plant stand! I’m seriously OBSESSED with this stand! I think it’s the best DIY I’ve done to date! Let me know what you think in the comments, and if you decide to take on this project, share a picture! As always, leave a comment if you have any questions and I will be sure to answer to the best of my ability!


  1. Cindy says:

    This is beautiful Sara!!

    Liked by 1 person

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